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Detecting pattern at the end of a line with grep. Did you mean that.asc is like *asc pattern? This will find any files that may be named starting w/.rar. The Starting Line - Say It Like You Mean Genre: Pop Rock / Alternative Year: 2002 1. The Starting Line - Based On a True Story; The Starting Line - Say It Like You Mean. Misheard Lyrics music video in high. You are now on the desktop site. Top 100; Videos; Features; Artists; Log In. Notifications Account. I like my steak rare., . Write what you mean clearly and correctly. Say It Like You Mean It -. The Starting Line Discografia (MEGA). The Starting Line - Say It Like You Mean It the. A.History.Of.Violence.2005.AC3.SWESUB.DVDRip.XviD-Skvaguratet Viktor Kamerabilder Europa.rar. Diana Ross - All The Starting Line - Say It Like You Mean It The Great Love. It helps if you used RAR recovery when you created the archive. WinRAR and RAR command line mode. Like other archives, RAR files are data containers. Family Do You Trust Them? Health This Is What High-Functioning Anxiety Really Looks Like. Listen free to The Starting Line – Say It Like You Mean It (Up & Go, Given the Chance and more). Say It Like You Mean It is the first full-length album from pop punk band The Starting Line. The Starting Line is an American pop punk band based in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania that formed in 1999. The songs ranged from energetic and fast-paced to melancholy and. These tools are for applying wax in fine lines. Hot wax is poured into the needle. It then flows through the needle spout. You can tip the tool forward to start the wax flow, and tip it back to stop it. Jacquard’s Silk Colors are liquid dyes used primarily for direct application silk painting. The range consists of 20 intermixable colors—the essential rudiments for an infinite palette of vivid hues. Here's a better Tjanting from Indonesia, the home of batik. Carefully handmade in a small village with all copper parts and Teak wood handles. Copper is easier to heat than the brass ones, and the tips produce a finer line. Better Tjanting Batik Tools SuppliersBatik Art by Jonathan Evans. For some reason, I've never been able to remember jokes. Considering the number that I must have heard in my life, it's amazing that I can only remember perhaps two or three altogether... One of the other two jokes that I can remember must come from the early Sixties by the sound of it. It isn't very funny but it goes like this: Why did they call Marilyn Monroe a Suicide Blond? Because she died by her own hand. A pretty pathetic joke but it leads me somewhat uneasily to dyes which of course provide the colours in the Batik process. I've always loved dyes and dying cloth. As a teenager I used to buy cheap dyes and change the colour of my clothes in buckets at home as my tastes and trends changed. I once used our bath to dye some jeans black which got me into a lot of trouble. When I first discovered batik as a school teacher in Oxford, I found that there were some pretty good British dyes easily available and that's what we used in those first experiments. When Marie Luz and I first started to work together in Barcelona, we really had a lot of fun scouring hardware stores and pharmacies in the narrow twisting streets of the old areas of Barcelona. Every now and then, we would uncover great caches of long- forgotten dyes. They were mostly ancient and came in little rock- hard pastilles which I would quite literally have to attack with a hammer before grinding them down to a usable powder with an old metal spoon. It took a lot of time to prepare these old dyes which often came in strange, exotic and unfamiliar colours like rose madder, old gold or (very sought after) cerulean blue. A good find would be very exciting for us and cause for great celebration. Probably most of my work before I came to America was created using these old Spanish dyes. Better Tjanting Batik Tools DenpasarWe would add salt as a fixative and they would fade quickly in the sun or after repeated washing of the cloth. But the colours were often lovely and clear and I learned a lot about mixing dyes and creating different colours. When I came to America, finances and ignorance dictated that I continued to use dyes that were readily available in drugstores all over the country. They were either in powder or liquid form, were easy to use and once again salt was the requisite fixative. But I soon became aware of other dyes on the market, dyes that were made specifically for Batik, were much faster ( ie. My dyes had to be cold rather than hot water dyes for of course, hot water would melt the wax on the cloth. I found that there were various appropriate dyes on the market but after experimenting with different kinds, I settled upon one kind which I have used almost exclusively for the last ten years or so. These dyes are Fiber Reactive dyes, which I found to be widely available from art stores and mail order catalogues all over the States. They are called Reactive dyes because the dye stuff is quite inert until it is dissolved in an alkaline solution. The alkaline brings about a reaction which causes the dye to bond with the fiber involved. Fiber reactive dyes develop colour inside the cloth rather than on the surface which improves light and wash- fastness. They are designed specifically for vegetable- based fibers like cotton, linen or rayon. With the addition of a mild acid such as white vinegar and the gradually raising of the temperature of the dye bath, Fiber Reactive dyes may be used with protein- based cloths like wool, silk or even nylon. Washing Soda is the alkaline activator and common Table Salt levels the colour of the dye and improves its solubility. To dye one pound of fabric, the basic proportions are two and a half gallons of water to a tablespoonful of dye powder, 4. I have to confess that at this point I rarely measure out my dyes and chemicals very carefully but rather gauge the amounts by eye. I use only a few dye colours and mix all my colours from them. My basic dyes are lemon and bright yellows, scarlet, cobalt, navy and turquoise blues, dark brown and black. Sometimes I use a different blue, fuschia or a warm red and there are several different black dyes, with base colours ranging from a dark green to a violet. Mixing dyes is just like mixing any paint and accuracy comes with experience. The process is relatively simple for immersion dyeing. The fabric should first always be washed to remove any starch or sizing on the surface of the cloth. Next the dye should be made into a paste and then dissolved into a cup of hot water. The salt should also be dissolved in two quarts of hot tap water and both dye and salt solutions should be added to the remaining two gallons of cold water. The fabric should be immersed in the liquid for a few minutes before adding the soda, which has been dissolved in a warm solution of water. The dye bath is now activated. Introduction: When I . I never tried to remove any wax myself, just deliv-ered it to him and a week later. Set of 4 different sizes in a neat batik cloth covered box. These are exactly what are used in Java to apply the wax when making hand made batik cloth. Very cool handmade tools! Rainbow Silks latest special offers. Please select the product you are interested in to see full details and buy the product. Special offers are only available while stocks last. BATIK Batik is a technique for the surface decoration of cloth in which multiple resist dyeings using wax patterns to block dye is the principal design device. For example, begin with a. Marbling Kit - newly improved! The ancient art of paper marbling has historically been associated with the book arts. The technique involves floating paints on the surface of a gel-like medium (known as the “marbling size. The liquid may be stirred occasionally and the longer the immersion of the cloth, the deeper the resulting colour. After a couple of hours, the solution begins to lose potency and will eventually stain rather than dye the cloth. After twelve hours, the dye colours may not be true or fast. I have learned to leave my fabric in the dye for a little bit longer than seems necessary for the colour always drops a little by the time the cloth is dry. If I hold the fabric up to the light and look through it, I can get a pretty accurate idea of my final colour. When the dyeing process is finished and the desired colour obtained, the fabric may be rinsed carefully, so as not to dislodge the wax on the cloth. The longer that the fabric is kept damp, the more fixed and permanent the dye will be. I generally lay the batiked cloth out on a table and let it dry slowly between layers of plastic. After a couple of days, the fabric is usually dry enough to be rewaxed or, if finished, is ready for the drycleaner who removes the wax for me. The wax may also be ironed out by placing it between sheets of newspaper and running a hot iron over it but that is a tedious and messy process and some residue of wax will always remain. To apply the dyes by brush locally to the fabric, I mix up water with a little Urea which is a moisture- drawing agent and keeps the fabric damper, longer during the drying process, ensuring deeper, brighter colours. I dissolve a little seaweed thickener, Sodium Alginate, in the liquid which inhibits the spread of the dye. I add one teaspoonful of soda in solution and as much dye powder as I need to a cup of this chemical solution. My dye is then ready to be painted directly onto my cloth which should then be dried slowly under plastic sheeting. As with the immersion dyeing, the dye mixture gradually loses its strength over a period of several hours. Dyeing, like living, comes with practise and both, in theory at any rate, improve with time and experience. I suppose that I create my colours almost intuitively at this point. A mixture of lemon yellow and turquoise dye result in a very different colour to that produced by a mixture of bright yellow and turquoise. A warm red with a bright blue dye can result in a brown tone whereas the same red combined with navy blue produces violet. A true black is the most difficult colour of all to dye and I've been known to keep a fabric immersed in dye for days or even weeks on occasion to get a really dark tone. I could spend another lifetime playing with different dyes and still not exhaust all the permutations, combinations and resultant colours. In my own work, I'm probably locked into some familiar dye colours at this point and know exactly how to achieve the tones I want in my batiks. But flesh tones continue to be mildly problematic for me and the results are still not always predictable. I have learned to use reds mixed with browns and then heavily diluted with water for those colours which, like skin tones all over the world, often vary enormously. Dyeing, like living, doesn't always come easy as poor Marilyn found out. There were several kinds of waxes, I discovered, clear paraffin wax, amber coloured beeswax and an inexpensive substitute called microcrystaline wax. The latter was a deep brown colour, was very soft and usually used by sculptors as a modeling wax. If I used only paraffin or candle wax on the cloth, I found that the brittleness of the wax caused it to flake off easily. Even taking great care, I found that it cracked too much also and my early pieces had far too much of that veining effect on them. Too much cracking often obscured the picture itself. So I learned to cut the paraffin wax with the softer wax and ended up generally using a third of the soft waxes to two thirds of paraffin wax. Lately I have used a higher proportion of soft wax to brittle wax to eliminate as much cracking as possible. The only problem with that is that the softer wax is much more viscous and thick. It flows much more slowly and cools too quickly for easy use. I suppose that the perfect wax blend comes with experience and that different mixes are appropriate in different batiks. In the end, good representational batik mostly comes down to control of the wax and the secret to that lies in finding the perfect wax temperature. I found that when the wax started to smoke, it was too hot, spread too quickly and was uncontrolable. When the wax was too cool, it couldn't penetrate the cloth, lay on the surface instead and allowed the dye to slip beneath. The perfect heat lay somewhere in between and once found, the temperature of the hot plate should be maintained at a low setting. Back at the beginning, we discovered that if you painted wax on both sides of the cloth, the wax acted as a surer dye repellent and that the colours were cleaner and brighter. Likewise, when the wax was thicker, the cracking was clearer. And we learnt to mix all our dye colours from five or six basic colours, as I still do. A Tjanting is a traditional Javanese tool generally made of copper and wood which is used to apply the hot wax to the smallest areas of cloth imaginable. Toolsource. com, Your professional tool authority! 78 results for international tool cabinet. International Tool Storage 7-Drawer Blue Steel Organizer Rolling Toolbox Cabinet. INTERNATIONAL Tool Boxes designs and manufactures a broad selection of Tool Storage Products for professional automotive technicians, Industrial maintenance. 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Sky/Freesat HDR Satellite Dish DIY Self.LNBs for satellite dishes LNBs. B LNB 4. 0mm C1. 20 flange LNBs. Titanium single, twin, quad, quatro, octo LNBs. UKWhat is an LNB ? An LNB is the box of electronics on the end of the dish boom arm. It acts like a aerial mastheadamplifier. The signal (microwaves) reflect off the dish and into the feedhorn to the LNB. Here it is amplified and the frequency is lowered. The lower the noise figure the better. The signal is then sent down the coaxial cable to thesatellite receiver. Quality digital cable should be used. Single have one output,twin - two outputs, quad - 4 outputs and Octo - 8 outputs. All outputs are the same and are equivalent toa single LNB. A twin LNB could be used for two single tuner satellite receivers or a twin tuner satellite receiver. Technomate LNBs, Inverto LNBs, Invacom LNBs, Icecrypt LNBs, Sky Twin LNB, Sky Quad LNB, Sky Quatro LNB, Sky Octo LNBs. Sky Mini Dish quad LNB. Quatro LNBs have 4 outputs and they are all different. Quatro LNBs can only be used with multiswitches. There are also 4. LNBs and C1. 20 LNBs. This refers to the way they fit on a dish. A 4. 0mm LNB has anintegral offset feedhorn and fits to the most common types of offset dishes. C1. 20 flange LNBs fit on a separate feedhorn and could be used on either offset or prime focus dishes. They are usually used on specialist high quality dishes. Both 4. 0mm and C1. LNBs could have single, twin, quad or quatro outputs. At the moment only 4. LNBs have octo outputs. Using a quatro LNB and a multiswitch it is posible to have many more outputs. Even 3. 2 outputs or larger. A Sky mini dish LNB uses a fixing that is none standard and a tongue fits into the end of the boom. To find out more about LNBs and how the perform go to Getting More Signal. Prime Focus and Offset Dishes. A 1. 2m prime focus dish is shown above. This type of dish is circular NOT oval. It has 3 feed support arms (some use 4 arms) and the 3 armsconverge in the centre. Each arm is 1. 20 degrees apart. The feedhorn uses concentric scalar rings. The concentric scalar rings reduce noise and improve signal to noise ratio with prime focus dishes. An offset dish (See below) is oval and is higher than it is wide (some are wider than they are high). They use either one feed support arm (at the bottom of the dish - see bottom left hand picture) or 3feed support arms (again all in the bottom 1/2 of the dish - see bottom right hand picture). Many offset dishes use a standard 4. LNB but some more expensive specialised offset dishesalso use a feedhorn If a feedhorn is used, a c. LNB is bolted to it. As a general rule the two types of dishes are simply two ways of doing the same job, however, an offsetdish, if well engineered, usually has significantly more gain than the prime focus dish. It is neverreally that simple. It is true that petalised offset dishes usually have poor gain but a one- piecewell engineered prime focus dish can be better than a poorly engineered offset dish and some verygood prime focus dishes can have the same gain as a good offset dish of the same size. As usual you get what you pay for. Cheap prime focus petalised dishes are to beavoided and we don't sell them. Prime focus dishes probably look better than offset dishes as they point upwards. Update Feb. 2. 01. See our new 1. 4m prime focus dishes at fixed 1. These prime focus dishes wll soon be available with C Band LNB options using the products on this page. |
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